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A Walk in the Steps of Portugal’s Knights Templar
An American ex-pat discovers a rich cultural and artistic history in Tomar, Portugal — his new hometown.
We come upon the church in darkness, our torches held high. The flames illuminate our white robes as we wait patiently for the four men who will step forward to set fire to the large cross in front of the building. I look up to see the castle illuminated on a hill to the west. The horses are agitated, skittering restlessly and kicking up gravel. I, too, am nervous but also proud to take part.
Though less than one hour long, our procession is part of a 900-year journey of the Knights Templar in Portugal.
“We’re going to get dressed up as Templar knights and march in the Festa Templaria,” my Portuguese husband explained. “They’ll pay us in beer and bifanas,” he added, knowing my stomach is more easily influenced than I am.
“I’m not Portuguese,” I reminded him. “I don’t think I should participate.”
“You are married to a Portuguese and live in Tomar,” he insisted. “You are Portuguese now.”
One of the requirements for Portuguese citizenship is establishing a connection to the community. If marching in a nocturnal procession of a medieval Portuguese brotherhood didn’t…
